White Sulphur Springs Alaska: A Boat-In Soak on Chichagof Island

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White Sulphur Springs has drawn visitors to this remote stretch of the Alexander Archipelago for well over a century. The spring gets its name from the white sulfur deposits that coat the rocks and sediment around the thermal vents—a vivid counterpoint to the dark green of the surrounding rainforest. The sulfur gives the water its distinct character: that faint eggy smell, the milky-turquoise color, and the local reputation for soothing sore joints and tired muscles. USGS thermal spring surveys have measured water temperatures in the moderate range, warm enough for comfortable soaking without being scalding.

Getting to White Sulphur Springs is part of the experience. Most visitors arrange a short boat ride from Pelican, a fishing community of roughly 80 permanent residents on Lisianski Strait. Pelican has no road connection to the rest of Alaska; everything arrives by boat or floatplane. That isolation shapes the place. The twenty-minute run across protected Bertha Bay delivers you to a wooden dock where a short trail leads through old-growth forest to the bathhouse. The US Forest Service maintains the site as a recreation area, which means it's free to use—a rarity in Alaska's hot springs landscape, where fees at developed sites can climb to twenty dollars or more per person.

The restored bathhouse at White Sulphur Springs came from a genuine community effort. When the original structure deteriorated over decades of harsh coastal winters, local residents and Forest Service crews undertook careful restoration work. The result feels genuinely rustic without being decrepit—weathered wood siding, a covered porch for gear storage, and reliable access to the thermal pools. The indoor pool is a simple concrete or wooden tub, typically warmer than the outdoor option and sheltered from rain or wind. The outdoor pool sits closer to the source, letting bathers feel the direct flow of mineral-rich water from the hillside. Steam rises visibly on cool mornings, curling through the spruces and hemlocks that crowd the shoreline.

Soaking at White Sulphur Springs feels like slipping into a rhythm that the modern world has largely forgotten. On any given visit, you might share the pools with a handful of other visitors—or you might have the place entirely to yourself. There are no lifeguards, no concession stands, no scheduled programming. The experience is what you make of it. Many visitors describe a profound sense of quiet here, the kind that only exists in places unreachable by car. The forest presses close. Ravens call from the canopy. A stiff breeze off the Gulf of Alaska keeps the air fresh and cool while your shoulders stay submerged in warmth.

For visitors who want to extend their stay, the rustic cabin available through the USFS is a solid option. The cabin sits near the bathhouse with a woodstove, basic sleeping arrangements, and a kitchen counter. Reservations book up well in advance during summer, when longer daylight hours and calmer seas make the boat crossing easier. Winter visits bring shorter days, rougher water, and the possibility of canceled boat trips—but also the reward of soaking under an Alaska sky that might show the northern lights. The Forest Service cabin rental system handles bookings through its regional office. Interested visitors should plan to reserve months ahead, particularly for summer weekends.

Practical logistics require attention before departing Pelican. The community has a small general store, but supplies are limited and prices reflect the cost of barge delivery. Most visitors bring everything they need from Juneau or other regional hubs, including food, water, towels, and any gear for overnight stays. The bathhouse does not offer shower facilities beyond the soaking pools. Cell phone service is unreliable to nonexistent in the Bertha Bay area, which means telling someone of your plans before you go is essential. Let a friend or the charter boat operator know your expected return time. Weather in Southeast Alaska changes rapidly; what begins as a calm morning can build into uncomfortable chop by afternoon.

Summer months, from May through September, offer the longest days, the most reliable boat service, and the most predictable weather windows. July and August tend to bring the warmest temperatures and the best visibility for hiking the short forest trail. Summer is also peak season for the cabin, and the baths see more use during these months. Shoulder seasons in spring and fall deliver fewer visitors and the possibility of dramatic weather, but boat access becomes less certain and shorter days limit soaking time. Winter visits are entirely feasible for the hardy. The hot springs operate year-round, and there is something undeniably appealing about steaming into cold rain while snow lingers on the surrounding hillsides.

White Sulphur Springs does not have the dramatic scenery of some Interior hot springs, the elaborate facilities of developed resort pools, or the easy roadside access of thermal sites in other states. What it offers instead is harder to find: a genuine backcountry soak in a wild coastal setting, maintained by a small community that understands the value of keeping this place accessible and unspoiled. The white sulfur deposits still mark the rocks. The water still flows warm from the earth. And the boat still runs from Pelican, whenever you're ready to cross the bay.